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Day 11 - Arles
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Thursday, May 23, 2013
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May 19, 2012 - Arles is one of those ancient French cities that many Americans have never heard of. Located in the south of France, in the Provence district, Arles was not a place I knew. Apparently the Romans were familiar with it, because they not only occupied Arles in 123 BC, they left a lot behind. An impressive arena and amphitheater are the most notable. Our 90-minute walking tour of Arles took us down narrow, busy streets lined with shops while our guide pointed out various historical facts. Art lovers probably are aware that Vincent Van Gogh lived here for many years and we even got to see a small cafe he immortalized in one of his paintings. It finally warmed up this morning enough that all we needed were short-sleeved shirts.
Remnants of the gates into the walled city
The ancient city of Arles, France
Remains of the Roman arena
Inside the Roman arena
After we returned back to Swiss Emerald, our Tauck Directors were already getting us organized for a coach ride to the Camargue region. After a short ride through the countryside, we arrived at a working farm/ranch that raises bulls and horses. If not for the French accent, you would swear you were on a ranch in Argentina the way the cowboys were outfitted.
French cowboys line up to greet us
We were all escorted into a large hall where an amazing lunch had been prepared featuring traditional Provencal specialties. A huge buffet line of appetizers included chicken wings, meatballs, stuffed grape leaves, tapenade, salads, and more. Then, a large platter of organic beef which had been braised in red wine appears on the tables along with a bowl of locally-grown rice. The meal was delicious. All through the meal, we were being serenaded by two guitar players/singers.
Horses come out to play for us
After lunch, we walked a short distance to a small bull fighting ring on the ranch. Actually, this ranch is famous for raising bulls for the sport. In France, unlike Spain, the bulls are not killed in the fight. The object of the sport is for the "matador" to remove flowers from the bulls horns without getting skewered in the process. So, the bulls always live to fight another day.
This cowboy jumps up on the fence to escape the charging bull
Unfortunately, the weather turned rather ugly again just as we entered the bull fight arena. The wind kicked up and it was much cooler. Rickee and I cursed our decision to leave our jackets back on the ship. Nevertheless, I was able to shiver my way through one bull demonstration. It was interesting. The bulls are pretty feisty and the cowboys being chased around the ring would have to jump up onto a 5-foot-tall inner fence made of boards to escape the bull's horns. More than once, the bull was able to jump the fence, then had to be herded back into the ring.
After the first bull was removed from the ring, I had had enough of the cold and I went back to the bus. Rickee stayed and watched a couple more bull demonstrations. The experience is one we will not soon forget and one that we would have never done had it not been for Tauck. This is pretty common with Tauck: they always come up with interesting cultural activities that are out of the norm.
Dexter and Slavina greet us with drinks at the Farewell Reception
Eszter, our Cruise Director, bids us farewell on our journey
After we drove back to Swiss Emerald, we had just enough time to clean up and get dressed for the Farewell Reception. Complimentary glasses of sparkling wine were being served as we entered the lounge. Soon, Eszter (pronounced Ester), our Cruise Director, made her final announcement for the cruise. She gave us all the details on disembarkation and how we would be transferred to Nice and Monte Carlo the next day. Captain Delaporte was introduced once again and offered a final toast to the crew and guests.
At 7pm we headed to the Dining Room for the Farewell Dinner. We joined our new friends, Ed and Phyllis, from New Orleans. The dinner was nothing short of spectacular. An amuse bouche of veal tartare got things started off, followed by what is probably the best lobster bisque I have enjoyed to date. A small portion of poached Dover Sole in Buerre Blanc sauce followed the bisque. The main course was a thick filet topped with Bernaise that was as good as any filet I have had on any cruise ship, and better than most. The finale was a dessert of baked Alaska, (complete with a sparkler parade through the dining room by the waiters), a swan profiterole and chocolate cookie. A glass of cognac was served as an accompaniment. I know it may sound like a cliche, but it truly was one of the most impressive meals I have seen on any ship.
Baked Alaska is the centerpiece of this decadent dessert
Tomorrow, we disembark Swiss Emerald and drive to Nice then on to Monte Carlo for a two-night post-cruise Tauck experience. The cruise may be over, but the trip is not!
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| 3 Comments | | | CRUISEREPORT.COM EDITOR | | | @Pierre, Sorry for the mistake. I thought I heard the guide say he also lived in the building. Probably the French accent confused me. I will correct it! Thanks. | | | Sunday, May 20, 2012 1:33 AM | | | | PIERRE | | | The yellow building displayed in the above picture is not the building where Vincent Van Gogh leaved but a bar he painted while in Arles. The painting is called "Terrasse du café le soir".
The house where Vincent Van Gogh leaved, called "La maison jaune" has been destroyed during world war II. It was located right in front of the deck where the cruise stopped. Currently, there is a small display at the point where the house was located. | | | Sunday, May 20, 2012 12:50 AM | | | | JUDY RAPHAEL | | | My husband and I were already thinking about taking this rivercruise when I came across your blog. You have done a fine job in describing this wonderful sounding vacation. Thank you for taking the time to give us all these terrific details and photos. | | | Sunday, May 20, 2012 12:24 AM | |
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